Berberè on Venn Street: what to order and when to go

Berberè is at 67 Venn Street, SW4 0BD, a short walk from Clapham Common tube. It does sourdough pizza, you can walk in or book, and a pizza plus a drink should come in around £25 or under.

The quick version

• Where: 67 Venn Street, SW4 0BD. Phone 020 7627 3881.
• Open: Sunday to Thursday 12pm to 10pm, Friday and Saturday 12pm to 10.30pm.
• Price: pizzas run from about £11 to £16 on the delivery menu, so check the restaurant menu for exact prices. OpenTable puts it in the “£25 and under” band.
• Book: not compulsory, walk-ins are welcome, but bookings are taken every day by website, phone or in person.

What it is

Berberè makes Italian sourdough pizza from a living starter and long-fermented dough, which its own site says is left for 24 hours. The group was founded in 2010 by two Calabrian brothers, Matteo and Salvatore Aloe, who opened their first pizzeria near Bologna. The Venn Street branch was the first in London. According to Restaurant Online, it took over the old Radio Alice site here, with the opening reported for October 2020. The Nudge says it was the group’s first outpost outside Italy.

The room still feels close to the Radio Alice days, according to The Nudge: exposed brick, white-tiled walls, a peach wash across the ceiling and wooden banquettes, with an open kitchen. OpenTable mentions two dining rooms linked by that kitchen, and a side room that can be hired privately for up to 40 people.

What to order

Start with the pizzas. Delivery prices on Deliveroo, which may differ in the restaurant, give a feel for the range:

• Margherita, about £11.40
• Smoked Margherita, about £12.40
• Norma, about £13.40
• Salsiccia, about £14.00
• Diavola Piccante, about £14.40
• Burrata and ’nduja, about £15.00
• Prosciutto di Parma, about £15.40

Diners on Tripadvisor single out the Diavola Piccante (spicy salami, ’nduja, fiordilatte and anchovies), the burrata and ’nduja, and the 4 Formaggi, plus the dips for the crust. Tiramisu gets praise in several reviews. Lightly salted crisps with aioli and paprika are £3.00 on the OpenTable menu if you want something while you wait.

Reviewers on OpenTable say the pizzas are large and filling, and often suggest sharing or going half and half. Harden’s rates the food 4 out of 5, describes a fairly short menu with good value, and praises the wines and draught craft beers. Deliveroo also lists a “£30 Meal for Two”.

Gluten is worth knowing about: the restaurant says its kitchen cannot make dough without cross-contamination, though it offers gluten-free alternatives to pizza. OpenTable also lists vegan options.

When to go

OpenTable says the pizzeria has a lovely local following that arrives in droves, especially at the weekend. So book for Friday and Saturday evenings, and expect weekday lunchtimes to be easier. It suits a meal before the cinema, and one Tripadvisor reviewer walked in unbooked before the theatre and was served quickly.

In warm weather, aim for the terrace, which has festoon lights and olive trees. Dogs are welcome, according to the restaurant’s FAQ, and OpenTable lists wheelchair access, takeaway and delivery. Takeaway can be ordered online for collection. There is no parking, and cash is not accepted on OpenTable’s listing: Amex, Mastercard and Visa are.

For after

Go next door but one, give or take, to Clapham Picturehouse, 76 Venn Street, SW4 0AT. It is a four-screen cinema mixing mainstream and independent films, and its bar serves wines, local beers, cocktails, barista coffee, tea and cake. The bar opens 15 minutes before the first film, so check what’s on before you plan a late drink. It also serves its own pizza, so it works better as a film and a drink than as a second dinner.

Getting there

Clapham Common (Northern line) is the nearest station. Honest Burgers, also on Venn Street, puts the station at 300 ft away. Check the Berberè website for current hours before you set off.

More detail: Berberè Clapham, the FAQ, Clapham Picturehouse.